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Materials.

Solid stock, milled in the shop. No veneer, no particleboard, no stain pretending to be a species it isn't. What you see on the surface goes all the way through the board.

Domestic hardwoods

What we mill most.

These four cover the majority of furniture work. They're stable, they age well, and they're available in the thicknesses a real table needs.

Black walnutJuglans nigraJanka 1010 · domestic

Chocolate heartwood with pale sapwood streaks. The default for live edge work. Lightens slightly with age rather than darkening.

Hard mapleAcer saccharumJanka 1450 · domestic

Pale, tight, and dense. Takes a crisp edge better than anything else on the rack. Occasionally shows curl or birdseye figure.

CherryPrunus serotinaJanka 950 · domestic

Starts pink-tan and darkens to deep red-brown over a year or two. The one species where the piece genuinely improves after you get it.

White oakQuercus albaJanka 1360 · domestic

Hard, water-resistant, and dramatic when quartersawn. The right choice for dining tables that will take daily abuse.

Exotics & accents

Used with intent, not for novelty.

These show up as inlay, contrast strips, and small goods more often than as whole tabletops. They're harder, heavier, more expensive, and worth it in the right place.

SapeleEntandrophragma cylindricumJanka 1410

Mahogany-adjacent, with a ribbon figure that shifts as you move around it. Handsome for consoles and casework.

WengeMillettia laurentiiJanka 1930

Nearly black with fine dark lines. Unbeatable as a contrast strip against maple. Splintery to work, so it's priced accordingly.

PadaukPterocarpus soyauxiiJanka 1970

Vivid orange-red when cut, mellowing to a deep russet brown within a year. Worth knowing that shift is coming before you choose it.

PurpleheartPeltogyne spp.Janka 2520

Dull brown from the saw, then it oxidizes to genuine violet within days. The hardest wood in the shop by a wide margin.

A maple and purpleheart coaster milled and squared, before any finish is applied Finishes

The finish is a decision, not an afterthought.

A finish only gets better through preparation and repetition. Most failures happen before the first coat goes on.

Hardwax oil

Our default for furniture. It penetrates rather than sitting on top, so the surface still feels like wood. Repairable in place — a scratch can be sanded and re-oiled without stripping the whole piece. Needs re-oiling every year or two on hard-use surfaces.

Catalyzed hardwax

Used where a piece will meet standing water: bar tops, entry benches, anything near a sink. More resistant to rings and spills, slightly more film on the surface, and harder to spot-repair.

Food-safe oil & wax

Cutting boards and serving pieces only. Mineral oil and beeswax, no driers, no solvents. It's meant to be reapplied by you — that's a feature of the finish, not a shortcoming.

Epoxy fill

For voids, checks, and river pours. Tinted black by default, or matched to your room. We fill what needs filling for structure and leave the rest — a knot that isn't going anywhere is character, not a defect.

Sourcing

Where the wood comes from.

Domestic hardwoods come from regional mills and sawyers across western North Carolina and east Tennessee, including urban salvage — trees that came down in storms or development and would otherwise have been chipped. Asheville produces more of that than you'd think, and walnut from a felled yard tree has a history a kiln-dried board from a warehouse doesn't.

Exotics are bought in small quantities from established importers. We ask about origin and we buy less of them than a shop our size might, partly on cost and partly because the supply chains are harder to verify than we'd like.

Everything is kiln-dried and acclimated in the shop before milling. Wood that goes into a piece before it's ready is the single most common reason furniture fails later, and it's entirely preventable by waiting.

Not sure which species?

Tell us the room, the light, and how hard the piece will get used. Choosing the wood is part of the job, and it's a good conversation to have early.